I finished the inside of a box with Danish oil 3 years ago. Discussion in 'Woodturning Discussion Forum' started by Emiliano Achaval, Jan 5, 2016. Once the initial coating is fully cured subsequent coats cure much faster, 1 -2 days. Flooded the oil on, waited 30 minutes and wiped it off. He could achieve the same appearance and better protection using a wiping varnish or spraying lacquer. I'd just wait until it doesn't smell 'bad' anymore. I hate to say this, but danish oil isn't much for protecting the wood. By But there's really no point to using it under poly on red oak. I just got through tackling it with mineral spirits and it was like beef jello rolling off the edges. ... By this time the wood was not absorbing much oil, and looked very ‘wet’ after oiling.After 20 minutes the excess oil was removed with a clean rag. Next time, I won't follow the directions quite so literally (or even at all). By 5PM today (29 hours after I put the oil on) it was still sticky and I mean REAL STICKY. You have about 15 minutes between soaking wood and sticky disaster. (Allowing 24hrs between each), The top top coat was applied 3 days ago but yet when water is now in contact with the tops, it leaves white marks on the top - it looks terrible. /r/woodworking is your home on reddit for furniture, toys, tools, wood, glue, and anything else that has to do with woodworking as a hobby or profession. Sort by. For the first part of the desk, he used a piece of red oak plywood, glued and biscuit-joined another small piece of wood (not sure what kind) across the front to give it a finished look, then sanded it all down. Needs to be maintained more often than other oil treatments. How long do you think you would let it cure to be sure its done off gassing and is food safe? It was used extensively on wooden hand tools (like axes/ hammer handles/hand planes) to help keep them from distortion. It will vary depending on the application and how much you have to take off with the steel wool.". ). This site uses cookies. How long do you think you would let it cure to be sure its done off gassing and is food safe? These are food-safe solutions that also can be "retouched" in smaller areas (like around the sink or other areas that are wiped often or "cut on", where any finish will wear first) and the 'refinished" area looks like the rest. And that will give you problems. Upload or insert images from URL. I made it from cherry and gave it 3 good coats of watco danish oil. Add a slowly circulating fan aimed in the direction of the closet for a few days. Knowing the brand and product name may help. By kitchen work tops are you talking about kitchen counter tops? You also have to be aware of its thickness. It felt dry-ish this morning and because I didn't want to use a spray inside, I switched to another oil-based poly that I then applied with a brush this afternoon. Still some sticky areas -- Watco would lose money if they had to pay salary for all the f$$$$$$ wait time. Yeah, I'm impatient. Thank you so much for your reply. Danish oil can add a beautiful finish to your wood and is relatively easy to apply. (I am, aren't I?) and I use an oil based poly. The understand about dry circulating warm air. You cannot paste images directly. best. Richard, thankfully it hadn't gone into the closet yet so I'm able to move it to do what I need. Drying completely depends on which type of danish oil are you using. I also emailed the "RustOleum/Watco people and received this reply back: ". It takes up a lot of time. Temp in shop was 70 degrees. I would use a sharp cabinet scraper to remove the layer of Danish oil but owning and sharpening a cabinet scraper may be beyond Dena's skill set. I've seen red oak weep oil out of the pores for days after application. I pulled every trick I knew, failed, when back to lumber yard where I purchased the product, they shrugged and shook their heads. level 1. That's about it. Any words of wisdom on what to do? Danish is sneaky, it can remain damp in small places on the wood. It is great to see that lots of woodturners use Danish Oil! I would remove the excess with turpentine, using an old towel. http://www.aawforum.org/community/index.php?media/users/gerald-lawrence.20956/, http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/watco/butcher-block-oil-and-finish/, http://www.rustoleum.com/en/product-catalog/consumer-brands/watco/butcher-block-oil-and-finish, http://www.howardproducts.com/prod-butcher-block.php, Technical Data Sheet for WATCO Butcher Block Finish, https://www.waterlox.com/Support/Guide?id=d794d2f1fb2043f390527801f084e605&q=Food, (You must log in or sign up to reply here. We believe our products are the best you can buy and our team will recommend the best product for the job. 3) Mineral Oil alone (widely available as "food grade", but make sure yours is). 2) Carnuba Paste Wax (e.g. I did wipe off as much as I could but it got sticky almost immediately so I quit at that point to let it dry. Any wood handled hammer head can stay tight longer if it is soaked in boiled linseed oil before using it, and I remember that some manufacturers would label their handles as oiled hickory. Watco UK LtdEastgate Court195-205 High StreetGuildfordSurreyGU1 3AWT: 01483 418 418©2020 Watco Group.Registered in England - Number 459144. Otherwise, leave it for 20 minutes to absorb the oil, then apply a second, thinner coat of oil. There are a bunch of ways to achieve nice wood countertops, here are the three that I've found most effective. Since Danish oil is a mix of varnish and oil you may have drying problems if you use some that is too old. VAT number 310927818. VerticalScope Inc., 111 Peter, Suite 901, Toronto, Ontario, M5V 2H1, Canada. When my dad was building cabinets, he often made dividers for the drawers. The jar (mixture) was then placed into a pot of hot water to warm it so the wax will melt into the mixture while stirring (this is done off of the stove away from flame). In this case I think it is the only process that will get the surfaces to what they want. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast. I recently made a silverware drawer organizer. This is the reason Danish Oil (or any other drying oil) is rarely used for kitchens or high-use surfaces like dining tables. It takes up a lot of time. Todays Danish oils have other (secret/recipes) additives but derive from the basic original recipe. It just might have taken a while. Several coats, you'll know when the finish feels right...smooth and silky with a low sheen. https://www.k-state.edu/facilities/storeroom/products/msds/Johnson Paste Wax 016094.pdf. Yeah....no. Anywhere else...it sucks. Hi, I need some advice please! We seem to have scared Dena off. Some home store mixes speed this up. 100% Upvoted. I was hoping the HBBC would dry completely without an oily surface.....and, it does. I’d give it 24 hours before doing anything else. Flooded the oil on, waited 30 minutes and wiped it off. Not a good choice for surfaces that are used for cutting. January 16, 2019 in Finishing. It's in no-man's land...it does nothing well... ...if you want that natural, oiled look, use oil. 100% Upvoted. Thank you- will do! Wax never cures and will slow down the evaporation of the solvent. It's in a closet, right? Thank you. share. save hide report. Pasted as rich text. When it dries you can lightly sand it with 220 or finer paper and apply another coat and repeat the process until you have the finish like you like it. Temp in shop was 70 degrees. Steel wool is dirty. (not talking about allergies). Pasted as rich text. When you see the detail in his projects and the time they take I guess a buttload of coats doesn't matter. Maybe longer. At 7Pm it was still not dry, sticky. Just have to keep buffing it with a cloth until it stops weeping, sticky, etc. Is there a fundamental difference in what makes oil cure and water evaporate? 1. I totally agree with you that Danish Oil doesn't have many uses but this guy finishes most of his pieces with it and can you imagine how many coats it takes to get that sheen on his projects? If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Make sure you do this safely though. Most oils are wiped on, left for 30 minutes to an hour and then wiped off at each coat. It's appropriate for workbenches. Johnson's, but make sure it's without abrasives). Shellac was also used as a top coat because it was easily removed from the surface with alcohol to clean (sweat/dirt/wax) and it allowed recoating of the boiled linseed oil again to refresh those tools. Unfortunately, you'll have to remove the Danish Oil first...start sanding! But it is perfect for a workbench...slightly more protection than oil so you can easily pop dried glue off...but not so much that it builds a slick film so your parts won't go slip-sliding around. Clear editor. I avoid polyurethane on counters. The finish ends up not very waxy after you buff the excess material off.
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