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Order a dally special of baked salmon with superb dill sauce and be prepared to become a regular. The food is simple (soups, salads, burgers, sandwiches, pasta, brick-oven fired pizza), fresh and cleanly presented. 2916 N. Henderson Ave., 214-828-2801. 2610 Maple Ave.. 214-52fr0032. The enchiladas can be ordered with mole rojo or mole verde. Meat is king at Gaylen’s; a complete range of barbecue possibilities is offered, including beef, sausage, ham, pork loin, chicken, salami and bologna. Moderate. Cafe Society. Huntington’s, This Is one of the best places in Dallas for a reasonably priced, reliably good meal. Answer : A Moment Seafood Heading further south, the roast chicken with a fruity Grand Marnier sauce was ordered, along with scrumptious mashed potatoes. (Elizabeth Eckstein) A side of green beans was fresh and crunchy; chocolate layer cake was fine. 2715 Elm St., 214-748-ROOM. 4700 Camp Bowie Blvd., Fort Worth, 817-738-4761. Only the wimpy creme brulee disappoints. The Pyramid Room. Moderate to expensive. 817-277-1945. Smoked chicken enchiladas were some of the best we’ve tried-really. Four-cheese fettuccine, for example, needed a sprinkle of that Parmesan, and the greens under a salad trio of Tuscany tuna, chicken and pasta pesto needed a sharp shot of oil and vinegar to bring them to life. One dessert was a light sin-a mélange of fresh berries bedded on pastry with warm caramel sauce and vanilla ice cream; the other, a dark one-hot choco-late cake, rich and crusty around a molten center, ice-cream topped on Amaretto crème Anglaise. Other highlights include Rumanian sausage, hand-packed dally, and veal chop, finished in the pan with dill and mushrooms In white wine sauce. Inexpensive to moderate. The desserts are rich and delicious. Watch out for the tame salad dressings, though. In the Preston Center Shopping Center, 8411 Preston Rd., Ste. Moderate. Your IP: 45.62.196.10 Filets. Hot, buttery enchiladas, down-home tamales and frijoles all have that ineffable tang only homemade can deliver. Moderate. Moderate. Isola Gozo. 500, Piano, 972-516-0865. 972-596^424. NorthPark Center, Northwest Highway and North Central Expressway, 214-691-0488. Greek Pastas, especially the hearty lasagne and tortellini with pesto, earn high marks due to their sprightly sauces. Delicate spices imbue truly fine Indian cuisine with attributes simitar to a tine perfume-too much creates an assault on the senses; too little, and there’s no magic. Desserts here are outstanding, too-Key lime pie holds a paper-thin curl of lime atop its tart cream filling; Banana Jazz features fantasy swirls of chocolate mousse and whipped cream layered with sliced bananas on a dark chocolate crust. Only one starter fed short: Lettuce timbales weren’t zipped enough with their minted tomato vinaigrette to be interesting. Moderate to expensive. 2800 Routh St., 214-849-0000. The lobster bisque also scored high marks, as did the fried calamari. Gaylen’s. The only less-than-angelic dish was an appetizer of oven-roasted chicken that-for reasons unknown-was served in a thick, tasteless strudel crust. The chicken barley soup-a “specialty”-was dull, limp and gooed with overcooked bow-tie pasta. Mecca. Expensive. Avila’s. hot, or extra hot. One stellar example: a starter called pastilla-ground chicken and almonds wrapped In puff pastry and dusted with powdered sugar. In addition to a lusty carnivorous appetite, be sure to bring your night-vision goggles to this chop house to keep from Bruising your nose on the dark wood paneling or from slipping on the green carpeting. But almost everything we tried here was just as stellar. Poor Richard’s Cafe. Las Cazuelas. We waited in anticipation for our general chicken and green pepper beef. We will return for the champagne Sunday brunch. Inexpensive to moderate. The uncluttered feng shui decor induces relaxed pleasure, from granite-huedtabletops and intimate booth enclosures to the witty flock of bright-colored origami birds that flutter from the ceiling.

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