There’s nothing quite like a brand new lock, stock, and barrel. Thanks for your help. I am sitting in the Phoenix air port waiting for my flight home. Some I've made and some I've purchased. Here is some info passed on to me when i was in process of finishing my F class rifle stock, via. What sheen does the Benmatte yield if just brushed on and allowed to dry? As the A couple of coats of this, with the surplus being rubbed off between coats with fine steel wool, will produce a smooth and non-absorbent surface ready for the final coat. chem-pak (in stock) 4.9 (9) tru-oil stock finish. Another problem with varnish finishes is that they will mask the natural color and grain in the timber and they rarely do justice to a good bit of wood. Later on I took to loading them (those that would fit) into a dishwasher set on the hottest cycle possible, with TSP in the detergent cup (not modern dishwasher stuff, the EPA banned the TSP content years ago). Made of natural oils blended with linseed oil, this finish provides a rich, stable and non yellowing or cracking finish popular with gun owners, guitarists and others who rely on quality wood finishes. to normal paint strippers and very difficult to remove physically. What is "pure teak oil", anyway? If it's an old oil finish, my best results have come from (wait for it.......) boiling the stock in a trisodium phosphate solution. Formby's and 0000 steel wool is the way to go. https://www.alloutdoor.com/2017/11/01/27-photos-gun-stock-refinishing Sounds wrong but it will remove wood / finish effectively and leave a surface as smooth as a baby's butt and even from end to end. Really speeds the job with a little practice. It will not leave burn streaks that some of the others do. Your killing me here Chic..... care to share your #1 choice please? I do not like glossy finishes, so have developed my own finishing treatment that brings out the best in the wood while being fully waterproof and easy to repair. I have refinished one gun stock in my life, an old Savage-Fox side-by-side shotgun a couple of years ago. Having recently obtained some high grade linseed oil that's almost 60 years old, I've become a born again believer in linseed oil. Old entrance doors often have heavier glass than the window panes and that glass is best. The best I have found locally is "Zip-Strip Marine/Industrial". I have a Krieghoff K80, 1986 vintage, with factory oil finish. easily. They In earlier times, I used a caustic paint This is characterised by being darker than the natural wood and producing a powdery white residue when scratched. I do not use any stains, as I prefer the natural Heating the wood with a hot air gun will also accelerate Watch the video below on how to finish your gunstock using this product: 2. Nothing degrades the look of a gun more than A final application of carnuba wax is an option. weeping stops. Never use Oven cleaners containing Lye . Thanks for the link natman, sounds like a great product. Old, non-epoxy finish........try some 0000 steel wool & alcohol. It may take 25 coats or more to get it done, but you will be happy with the result. a standard technique that has produced good results for me, regardless Flexner recommends at least two weeks. http://www.google.com/search?q=scott's+ ... t's+liquid, http://www.winsornewton.com/products/oi ... nseed-oil/. Q I am really confused over stock finishes: lots of my friends talk about the finish on their stocks, most say that an oil finish is best, others say a varnish or lacquer.I was told when I bought my gun that it had an oil finish, but it has now gone very dull and there are lots of pores showing in the wood. The orange smell is helpful. Australian Shooter November 2001. Birchwood Casey’s finish is a good one for Thanks Kachbr, just ordered a 75ml bottle here in Oz. I'm sure you're right, Customstox. I will not build up on the finish either. I used sandpaper on that one. I used a wiping varnish, which builds very slowly and so took forever to fill the black walnut on the 20 gauge stock. The quality of the end result is totally dependent on the work that goes into finishing the wood and by the time the preparation is finished, the wood should have a shine of its own without any finish yet applied. No, not saying TruOil is no good. Many times it's how the product is packaged and who's selling it. I will look for the Formby's or Zip-Strip Marine/Industrial.
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